Summer 2023

Rhys Maccalister on the North Face of the Tour Ronde during the BMG Aspirant Training Course


The following is a list of routes climbed during the 2023 Alpine/summer season


Convenor on the British Mountain Guides Aspirant Training Course. We climbed the Traverse of the Perrons AD, The Arete de Midi – Plan AD+, The Marbrees PD, The North Face of the Tour Ronde AD+ and the South Arete de la Vierge de l’Aroletta AD


2 week’s sailing and rock climbing in Scotland’s Western Isles onboard SV Marin including Muck, Eigg, Pabbay and Sandray.

NE Arete of the Petite Floria and Saint – Georges Gendarme AD+ (descent via Kaboul and voie normale)

Madigaskari D+, Aiguille de la Floria

Aiguille d’Argentiere by the Arete de Fleche Rousse AD

Aiguille de la Refuge by Gateau de Riz


La Somone, Brevent

Gendarme d’Orny via Papa Paye 5B

Aiguille d’Orny via Classique Sud 5A

Travers of the Ecandies via the Fenetre de Chamois D 5C

Pointe Isabella PD+ voie normale

Strahlhorn 4190m PD

Allalinhorn 4027m via the Holaubgrat PD+

Traverse of the Perrons, Emosson, CH

Gendarme Rouge du Peigne 3078m via the Peigne voie normale

Traverse of the Crochues PD

Weissmies 4017m via the Rotgrat PD+

Jagihorn 3206m via the Sudkante 5A+

Becco della Tribolazione 3360m via the  Grassi-Re TD 6A, an outstanding route

La Pera via La Meta e il Viaggio 6A

La Coléggiens TD + 6B, Le Rocher de Leshaux, Haute Savoie, France

August has been a sabbatical (refitting an aluminium expedition yacht) though I have guided the following:

2 days climbing in the North West of Scotland. The first at Rubha Ploytach (Reiff) then the iconic Old Man of Stoer which includes a swim, a Tyrolean and a free hanging abseil. One of the UK’s finest adventures.


Traverse of the Crochues

Aiguille de Tour voie normale

Ecole de Glace, Mer de Glace

Rock climbing at les Gaillands

Petit Fourche and col Blanc (found a way through on foot) to Trient Refuge

Aiguille de Tour and descent via the col du Midi des Grands

Traverse of the Pointe Lachenal

Ecole de Glace col de Rochefort

Gran Paradiso voie normale via Chabod (x 2)

Rock climbing in the Aosta valley

SW Ridge of the Dent de Fenestral

Voie Rouge 5A Les Cheserys & Aiguilette d Argentiere by the Fissure Diagonal

Arete a Laurent


The 2023 alpine summer has been better than the previous 2 but we have still seen soaring temperatures and permafrost melting resulting in rockfall at times. I am increasingly avoiding the high granite massid in August. Next season is booking fast so get in touch to secure dates/objectives.




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