Summer Alpine Season 2017
The following is a list of routes (images below) climbed both personally and professionally. Hopefully this will give an overview of recent conditions, particularly in the Mont Blanc massif.
June 2017
Contamine Route TD, Pointe Lachenal (ski in/out)
Gouter Ridge of Mont Blanc PD
Lepiney Route TD, Trident du Tacul
Cache Cache ED, Pointe Adolphe Rey
Les Lepidopteres D and Breche 3043m Peigne
East Ridge Pyramid du Tacul AD+
Goulotte Chere TD to summit Mont Blanc du Tacul (currently in very poor condition, 1st two pitches dry and melted out)
Forbes Arete AD Aiguille de Chardonnet (descent serious and icy, stonefall danger)
South Ridge D+ Aigulle Purtscheller
L’Opium du Peuple (TD), Pointe d’Orient, Envers des Aiguillles
Attempt on Aiguille de la Republique D+, Envers des Aiguillles
East Ridge Punta Udine AD, Cottain Alps
East Ridge Monte Viso AD, Cottain Alps (crampons needed in upper half)
July 2017
South Pillar TD, Croix de Fer, Chaîne de Fiz
Ni dieu ni maitre ED, Croix de Fer, Chaîne de Fiz
Traverse of the Aiguille d’Entreves PD+/AD
SE Arete of the Tour Ronde AD (Voie Normale very poor)
Vento Polaire 6A (rock climbing @ Dalmazzi)
Creazione Svestite & Kiora Pillar (rock climbing @ Dalmazzi)
Preuss route AD+ Aiguille de Savoie (high approach good)
Hey Man 5C (parete tei titani)
via Torrioni D+ on the Punta Venezia (Cottain Alps)
Diedre Raffi – Rattazzini TD Punta Udine (Cottain Alps)
La Fessura (Punta Udine) 6B (Cottain Alps)
Ottoz Route TD- Aiguille Croux the second “Ottoz” route this year! Magnificent.
Aiguille de Rochefort by the Rochefort Arete AD I think the approach will dry out now unless we have more snow & temperature drop (and become dry/loose). I put a track in from the ‘down climb/lower’. Needs to cool down & snow again.
August 2017
Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge AD currently good conditions
Traverse of the Crochues PD+
Cresta Perotti AD on the Punta Venezia (Cottain Alps) – client’s led
Cresta Roma AD traverse of the Udine and Roma,(Cottain Alps) – ‘it goes on a bit!’
Cresta Est AD on the Punta Udine (Cottain Alps)
Traverse of the Kleine & Gross Simelistock 4B (AD) – just wonderful, Bernese Oberland
Traverse of the Eigerjoch AD (1st peak only) – a recce to assess the South Ridge of the Eiger, too snowy. Bernese Oberland
Traverse of the SW & NW ridges of the Monch (both AD) Bernese Oberland
Grunegghorn PD+ Bernese Oberland
Eperon des Minettes (Peigne) D 5C wonderful alternative to the Papillons
Voie Normale Aiguille du Peigne AD a typical Chamonix AD, full rack and rockboots helpful. Classic.
Arete Laurent PD
Eiger Traverse via the Mittellegi Ridge D very good conditions at the moment
Traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues PD+
Aiguille Marbrée PD
Aiguille d’Entreves AD
September 2017
Arete de Doigt D 5C+, A0, Pointe Percee, Aravis
Gouter Ridge of Mont Blanc PD Grand Couloir in good condition
Matterhorn by the Hornli Ridge AD Crampons needed above Solvay but pretty good (8/9/17)
And that’s it for the main summer season this year. I’m personally finishing early to have an operation so will be out of action until November when I resume work in Antarctica.
We are now taking bookings for the following adventure ski trips:
Ski Mont Blanc (June 10 – 15 2018).
Greenland Ski & Sail (May 2018) FULL
We are going to Alaska in Spring 2019, please get in touch to register interest! This will be a road trip and unmanned hut ski tour. You must have skied with us before. We may have spaces for exploratory mountaineering also?
We are always interested in out of season projects at home in the Alps or abroad – Jorasses, Couloirs, Sunny Rock, the list is endless.
Other dates are always available with our colleagues.
